Culture and Out Of Africa’s Views on this Subject
The questions we are asked most often regard soil, light, fertilizer and watering. Please remember we like you are always trying to learn and improve our cultural practices. If it was really easy wouldn’t we find something else to do? Never be afraid to experiment. Look at everything below with the caveat, what works for us may not work for you.
Soil
Probably the most discussed subject when it comes to succulent plants and culture. We are finally able to get a mix we started using in Ohio but was unavailable to us in Florida. That mix is Sun Gro Metro Mix 366P Coir. Our sole reason for using this mix, it was the only one we could find that did not contain peat. When peat dries out it is very reluctant to reabsorb moisture, this was a problem for us as we would let our plants sit dry for up to twelve weeks in the dormant period (winter). In Florida winter humidity in an open greenhouse did not create any problems with a mix containing sphagnum peat moss, we used Fafard 4P mix. Since the 366P was a mix we really liked we have gone back to it. In conclusion try to find a professional soil mix if at all possible. Our advice is also stay away from retail products labeled “Cactus Mix”.
Soil Ammendments
To our soil mix we add perlite and diatomaceous earth. The percentages will vary depending on pot size and species. In general our mix is 60% soil, 30% perlite, 10% diatomaceous earth. Some will use pumice over perlite, we do not like pumice so it is just personal preference for us. Diatomaceous earth can be expensive and hard to find, we purchase ours from NAPA it comes in a 24 quart bag and is $7.99. Our goal with our final mix is to produce the best possible root system we can. Do not be afraid to inspect your root system when your plants are in active growth, this will tell you if you are on the correct path!
Fertilizer/Nutrients
After we have started to wake our plants from dormancy typically two waterings we fertilize our stock or parent plants with a blossom boosting fertilizer, or a fertilizer with a ratio along the lines of 1-3-2. We will also use Epsom Salt to help induce flowering. For us flowering is critical as our biggest enjoyment is producing seed and seedlings! Our seedlings do not receive this treatment. By the middle of spring all our plants will be on the same fertilizer regimen, we will use a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer every third watering at a rate of 50ppm nitrogen. With the first day of summer as a guideline we will give all our plants a dose of Peters S.T.E.M., this is a soluble trace element mix. In mid August we stop fertilizing. Could we fertilize more often and at a higher rate, of course! We like to use the analogy of a human on steroids, if a human is not weaned off steroids they will have trouble. If we fertilize heavily and you the customer do not keep up that same regimen the plants will suffer. There are also some very good controlled release fertilizers on the market that you may want to consider. Typically they will be marketed as 60, 90, and 180 day formulas. We would recommend 180 day.
Light
All of our plants are grown outdoors and in greenhouses that receive full sun morning through evening. According to the EPA southern Florida has the highest year round UV average. Southwestern states will see higher daily UV than us in only the summer months. So in general it will be almost impossible to give plants you receive from us too much sun light.
Watering
We like to say that many will underwater in the growing period and overwater in the dormant period. Many like to get on a regimen of watering once a week and in some case this may work. One question to always ask yourself, are you keeping your plants alive or are you watching them grow? With new customers we like to ask them to buy two $4 seedlings of the same species, water one using their normal schedule and water the other twice as often, look at the results and make decisions from what they see. In general the more leaves the species has the more water it will want.
October 23, 2026 — Monthly Featured Species: Adansonia digitata
For the first time in thirty years, we are proud to offer one of the most iconic caudiciform trees in the world: Adansonia digitata, the African Baobab, affectionately known as the “Upside-Down Tree” or the “Tree of Life.”
A story of rescue and conservation
All of our plants are legally sourced rescue plants from Tanzania, where young baobabs are imperiled by certain agricultural practices. Overgrazing by goats and cattle prevents these seedlings from growing more than a few inches above the ground, while farmers preparing fields for cultivation often plow through the remaining plants. Many would otherwise be destroyed before they have a chance to mature.
These plants are carefully removed from threatened areas and reestablished on our farm in Tanzania. Our current offerings have taken two years to establish, and they are breathtaking to behold. Knowing that these magnificent plants would otherwise likely have been lost makes them all the more special.
Help us propagate the Tree of Life
As part of our ongoing commitment to conservation and propagation, we are offering Baobab seeds free of charge. We will also be releasing an instructional video explaining how to prepare the seeds for germination.
To receive approximately five seeds at no charge, please send a self-addressed padded envelope with sufficient return postage for one ounce of seeds to: 1842 S Rocky Mountain Dr Tucson, AZ 85710. We are also happy to provide seeds free of charge to any cactus and succulent club upon request.
We believe preserving a species requires all of us to become part of the solution. Help us propagate these magnificent trees and ensure that future generations have the opportunity to experience them.
A living sculpture for your collection
Baobabs can be trained beautifully in wide, shallow bonsai pots, where their extraordinary trunks and distinctive growth habits can become incredible show specimens. Imagine recreating, on a miniature scale, the imposing silhouette of a mature Baobab rising above the vast African savanna. With the right container, thoughtful training, and a little imagination, you can create a living sculpture unlike almost anything else in the succulent world.
A legacy that can outlive us
Perhaps one of the most compelling qualities of a Baobab is its potential to become a living legacy. These remarkable trees are renowned for their extraordinary longevity, and a well-maintained specimen can be passed from one generation to the next.
We can easily envision today’s plants eventually finding homes in botanical gardens and public collections, where they may inspire generations long after us. Imagine a tree that began in your collection continuing to capture the imagination of your children, grandchildren, and even your great-grandchildren.
That is part of the magic of the Baobab: it connects us not only to the natural world but also to the generations that follow us.
Our current offerings
Each Baobab has its own distinctive character, and we will be posting several individual plants for you to choose from. If you are interested in larger specimens, please feel free to contact us directly.
For the first time in three decades, you have the opportunity to add one of these extraordinary African icons to your collection. We invite you to join us in celebrating the Baobab—and in helping ensure its future through propagation and conservation.
September 25, 2026 Monthly Featured Species: Mestoklema tuberosum
Welcome to our monthly featured species.
This column highlights selected plants, focusing on horticulture and interesting details that you can share with your friends. As in previous installments, we’ll address species surrounded by common misconceptions regarding their care—many of which are repeated by search engines and, increasingly, by AI-generated recommendations.
Our fourth installment focuses on Mestoklema tuberosum. Its horticultural requirements are similar to the Commiphora discussed in our last column. Like Commiphora, Mestoklema is not a true succulent. Despite its swollen trunk and succulent appearance, it requires considerably more moisture than its appearance might suggest.
Watering
Mestoklema tuberosum should never be allowed to become completely dry, particularly during the summer. Extended dry conditions can cause the large, exposed roots to desiccate, sometimes to the point where they become difficult to rehydrate.
We keep our plants consistently moist, tolerating regular watering and even temporarily wetter conditions. In our collection, we water approximately once a week year-round.
Mestoklema typically enters dormancy during the cooler winter months, usually around November, and resumes active growth around March or April. During dormancy, we reduce the amount of water we provide, but we never allow the growing medium to remain completely dry for an extended period. Bone-dry conditions can excessively desiccate the roots and make rehydration difficult when growth resumes.
Despite their swollen trunks and succulent appearance, Mestoklema should not be treated like a typical drought-adapted succulent. If an actively growing plant begins developing yellow leaves, insufficient moisture is one of the first things we investigate.
Growing Medium
We use a growing medium consisting of approximately 50% coir and 50% pumice. However, Mestoklema are not particularly demanding about the exact composition of the soil. Any well-draining medium that retains some moisture without becoming stagnant or waterlogged should work well.
In our experience, they are considerably more tolerant of consistently moist conditions than many growers expect.
Mestoklema tuberosum as Bonsai
Mestoklema makes excellent bonsai material. They grow quickly and develop long, gracefully drooping branches that eventually form a protective umbrella over the roots. In their native habitat, these roots remain underground and need protection from the intense midday sun.
Their vigorous root systems also allow them to adapt well to different types of containers. They readily fill the available space and can be grown successfully in deeper training pots or transitioned into shallower bonsai containers.
The resulting plants can be particularly attractive, with the swollen caudex and exposed roots complemented by a broad, umbrella-like canopy of branches.
The Takeaway
The important takeaway is simple:
Don’t treat Mestoklema like a true succulent. They need water.
Maintaining moderate moisture throughout the year—including during winter dormancy—produces healthy plants, supports vigorous seasonal growth, and helps prevent excessive root desiccation.
For those of you who have made it all the way to the end, we’re offering 10% off all of our Mestoklema tuberosum.
These are seed-grown, farm-raised plants.
The 10% discount will remain in effect until September 28, 2026
August 28, 2026 Monthly Featured Species: Boswellia & Commiphora
Welcome to our monthly featured species.
This column highlights selected plants, focusing on horticulture and interesting details you can share with friends. As in previous installments, we’ll address species surrounded by common care misconceptions—many of which are repeated by search engines and AI-generated recommendations.
Our third installment focuses on Boswellia & Commiphora species, which generally have similar horticultural requirements. We’ll discuss them collectively by genus. These fast-growing plants produce new branches readily and make excellent bonsai material.
Their care is simple once you remember one important fact: they are not true succulents. They need considerably more moisture than their appearance suggests.
During active growth, we keep our Boswellia & Commiphora consistently moist. They tolerate regular watering and even temporarily wetter conditions. In our collection, we water approximately weekly year-round.
Boswellia & Commiphora typically enter dormancy during the cooler winter months, usually around November, and resume growth around March/April. Even when completely leafless, they still receive water. During dormancy, we reduce the amount but never allow the growing medium to remain completely dry for an extended period. Bone-dry conditions can excessively desiccate the roots and make rehydration difficult.
Despite their swollen trunks and succulent appearance, Boswellia & Commiphora should not be treated like typical drought-adapted succulents. If an actively growing plant develops yellow leaves, insufficient moisture is one of the first things we investigate.
We use a growing medium consisting of approximately 50% coir and 50% pumice. However, Boswellia & Commiphora are not demanding about the exact mix. Any well-draining medium that retains some moisture without becoming stagnant or waterlogged should work well. In our experience, they are more tolerant of consistently moist conditions than many growers expect.
Boswellia & Commiphora as bonsai
Boswellia & Commiphora make excellent bonsai material. They grow quickly, develop thick branches readily, and respond well to pruning and training, allowing substantial branches to develop in a relatively short time.
They also adapt well to different containers. Their extensive root systems readily fill available space, so they can be grown in deeper training pots or shallower bonsai containers.
The important takeaway is simple: don’t treat Boswellia & Commiphora like a true succulent. They need water.
Maintaining moderate moisture throughout the year, including during winter dormancy, produces healthy plants, supports vigorous seasonal growth, and helps prevent excessive root desiccation.
For those of you who have made it to the end, we have discounted all of our Boswellia & Commiphora 10%, these prices we remain in affect until the end of the day this Sunday, August 30, 2026.
August 14, 2026 Featured Species: Dioscorea elephantipes
This column focuses on selected species, with an emphasis on horticulture and other interesting tidbits that you can share with your friends. Continuing in the same vein as our previous installment, we will focus on species for which there are widespread misconceptions regarding their care. In fact, search engine results and AI-generated recommendations are frequently—and sometimes completely—erroneous!
Our second installment is Dioscorea elephantipes, commonly known as Turtle Shell or Elephant’s Foot. This is a relatively easy plant to grow, but it is often misunderstood when it comes to watering during dormancy. The commonly recommended practice is to keep it completely dry while dormant. We strongly disagree.
Our Dioscorea do well when watered throughout the year. While actively growing and in leaf, we keep them consistently moist, but never wet. They typically go dormant in early summer, around June, and begin producing new vines again in August. During these warm summer months, even though the plants are completely out of leaf, we continue to water them, taking care not to allow the growing medium to become completely dry.
Maintaining some moisture during dormancy is important because the roots remain alive and the caudex can become severely desiccated if the plant is allowed to remain completely dry for an extended period. In our collection, we essentially water weekly year-round, both in and out of leaf, keeping the growing medium moist but never saturated.
We prefer wide, shallow pots for Dioscorea elephantipes. The roots tend to grow outward from the leading outer edges of the caudex, making a broad container more suitable than a deep, narrow pot. Shallow pots also provide an attractive presentation and allow the distinctive caudex to be displayed prominently.
For our plants, we use a growing medium consisting of approximately 50% coir and 50% pumice. However, Dioscorea elephantipes is not particularly demanding regarding the exact composition of the mix. Any well-draining medium that retains some moisture without becoming waterlogged should work well.
The important takeaway is simple: dormant does not mean dry. In our experience, maintaining moderate moisture throughout the year, including during summer dormancy, produces healthy plants and helps prevent the caudex and root system from becoming excessively desiccated.
August 4, 2026 Featured Species: Sarcocaulon multifidum
Our first installment is Sarcocaulon multifidum, now reclassified as Monsonia multifidumThese are relatively easy-to-grow plants, but they suffer from two major misconceptions: first, that they are winter growers, and second, that they should be watered only sparingly.
Summer Growing
Our Monsonia multifidum— and Sarcocaulon in general — grow extremely well during the summer months, flourishing with consistent moisture. They should never be allowed to go completely dry during their active growing season.
Our plants remain in full, vibrant leaf despite daytime temperatures exceeding 90°F. When they aren’t given enough water, the delicate leaves begin to yellow and drop. The plant then grows poorly or may be forced into premature dormancy. This is likely one of the reasons for the misconception that these plants are strictly winter growers.
During the summer growing season, we water ours at least once a week, keeping the soil consistently moist.
Despite often being treated as succulents, Sarcocaulon are not true succulents, and we therefore water ours throughout the year. During winter, when the plants are out of leaf or less actively growing, we reduce watering substantially — but we still provide enough moisture to keep the soil from becoming completely dry and hard.
Light
In Tucson, our plants grow well under 50% shade all the way to direct sunlight.
When first establishing one at your home, however, we recommend providing at least partial shade during the first two weeks to allow the plant to acclimatize to its new environment. Once established, you can gradually increase the amount of sunlight it receives.
Soil
A well-draining soil mix makes the care of these — and all of our plants — considerably easier.
Our preferred mix is 50% salt-depleted coir and 50% pumice. The coir we use is available from EcoGro https://ecogro.com/. Any well-draining mix, however, can work well.
A Great Specimen Plant
Monsonia multifidum makes a fabulous specimen plant. They look particularly impressive when staged, require relatively little space, and, contrary to much of the information available online, can flourish throughout the summer growing season.
As always, our recommendations are based on our own experience growing these plants, rather than simply repeating the conventional wisdom found online.
Give them adequate light, a well-draining soil, and — most importantly — enough water during active growth, and you may be surprised by just how vigorous these plants can be!